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Join Teague Custom Marine at Desert Storm April 2023

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Teague Custom Marine is thrilled to be attending the Annual Desert Storm Poker Run and Krusin’ for a Kause event,  April 19-22, 2023. Desert Storm is celebrating its 25th anniversary in 2023 and is the largest Performance Boating event in the Western United States! This unique event stands as one of the largest events of any kind in Lake Havasu City, Arizona. To register visit Desert Storm LHC.

Krusin’ for a Kause was created as a day for our boating community to share what we all love so much. Our Desert Storm Family and extra volunteers come together to give special needs children and adults rides in high performance boats.  Launching from the Anderson Powersports dock at Windsor 4, selected high performance boat owners give memorable special needs individuals a fun cruise around the lake. This fun day of boating is capped off with a great BBQ lunch and Karaoke!  Krusin’ for a Kause event info can be found here: Event Info

 

This fun-filled day of activities is a great way to kick off the Desert Storm festivities and promote community outreach.  Krusin’ for a Kause will be located at Lake Havasu State Park, Windsor 4 Docks, on April 19, 2023.  Volunteers must be present for check-in and a brief driver’s meeting. We want to start promptly as our special guests and participants will start to arrive and we hope to start boat rides at 10:30am.  If you are interested in volunteering, please Sign Up Here.

Street Party:
The event action moves to the main street in Lake Havasu City which is shut down to allow thousands of fans to enjoy the street scene ambiance of powerboats, their equipment and vendors spread over nearly a mile. This is hands down the largest event held on Lake Havasu City’s main street!

Time & Location:
Apr 20, 1:00 PM – 9:00 PM
Eye of the Storm and Registration Area
2001 McCulloch Blvd N,
Lake Havasu City, AZ 86403, USA

Come say hello to Team Teague during the Desert Storm Street Party – our bright yellow 10×10 tent is hard to miss! Teague Custom Marine will be open in the Street Party on Thursday, April 20, from 1pm – 9pm. The complete line of Teague Racing Apparel for men, women and children will be available for purchase at the event.

Parade of Power & Poker Run:
Hundreds of amazing powerboats cruise through the Bridgewater Channel passing under the world famous London Bridge on their way to the start of the Poker Run. The sides of the mile long channel are lined with spectator boats and the beaches are filled with shore-bound spectators and vendors.

Shugrue’s Shootout:
Participants in the Shugrue’s Shootout compete on the high speed 3/4 mile closed course for the King of Desert and Queen of the Desert titles. Speeds approaching 200 miles per hour are achieved in this exciting competition! Grab your boat or set yourself up at site 6 for all the action!

For additional details about the event go here:
Desert Storm Schedule of Events.

For more images from these events, check out our photo albums:
Krusin’ for A Kause at Desert Storm 2019
Teague Custom Marine at Desert Storm 2017

Photos courtesy Tommy Gun Images, www.tommygunimages.com, Ray Lee, www.speedboat.com, and Cherilyn Teague Noack.

The post Join Teague Custom Marine at Desert Storm April 2023 first appeared on Teague Custom Marine.

Teague On Tech: Q & A with Bob Teague March 2023

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As seen in Speedboat Magazine’s
March 2023 Issue.

565 With XR DRIVE

Dear Bob:

Q. I have 2019 Nordic 29′ deck boat with a Mercury Racing 565 motor package that came with the XR drive. After 200 hours, my drive has failed. I am not sure what’s wrong with it yet because I have not had it taken apart for inspection.

Is this drive too small? should I consider changing to a different drive? Will I get more life out of a different drive? play on Lake Havasu.

David Hutcheson
Garden Grove, CA

David, if the engine is stock, the XR is acceptable. The Teague Platinum XR version would be an improvement which includes an improved vertical shaft, (material and design), an improved 300M spiral shaft, a one-piece 17-4 SS prop shaft, often and at a minimum when the engine oil is changed. I would do this in about 25 to 30 hour intervals. A complete drive failure could have been prevented by changing the oil and observing the oil and the drain plug magnets for debris. Silver metal debris on the magnets is a sign that a gear or bearing is starting to fail. At that point, the drive could have been repaired before a complete failure occurred. Your drive can be rebuilt and upgraded to the Platinum version. The cost would depend on the condition of your upper and lower housings and what other parts are usable. a heavy duty billet top cap as well as other improvements. The Platinum XR drive, and the IMCO SC drive still use the Mercury XR gears which are the parts that usually wear first. IMCO makes an SCX upper that uses larger gears and has proven to be one of the options for higher horsepower applications. The SCX lower unit will hinder the top end performance on your Nordic Deck Boat. Combining the SCX upper with a TCM Platinum XR lower or an IMCO SC lower is a good compromise.

IMCO SCX Outdrive.

The Mercury Racing 565 does not have massive bottom end torque. But when you add the load caused by the wetted surface of the hull of a large deck boat loaded with people, drive reliability could be affected.

It is important that the drive oil is changed often and at a minimum when the engine oil is changed. I would do this in about 25 to 30 hour intervals. A complete drive failure could have been prevented by changing the oil and observing the oil and the drain plug magnets for debris. Silver metal debris on the magnets is a sign that a gear or bearing is starting to fail. At that point, the drive could have been repaired before a complete failure occurred. Your drive can be rebuilt and upgraded to the Platinum version. The cost would depend on the condition of your upper and lower housings and what other parts are usable.

Nordic 29′ Deck Boat

For your chance to be featured in Teague On Tech, email your questions for Bob Teague to Ray@speedboat.com.

Check out the Teague Tech Library for diagrams and schematics of how to correctly install and perform various repair and upgrade projects. At Teague Custom Marine, we don’t ‘just sell parts’, we know how to install everything we sell. When it’s time to tackle a project, count on Teague Custom Marine to have the part and the answer.

The post Teague On Tech: Q & A with Bob Teague March 2023 first appeared on Teague Custom Marine.

Teague On Tech: Q & A with Bob Teague April 2023

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As seen in Speedboat Magazine’s
April 2023 Issue.

B&M SuperChiller

Dear Bob:

Q. I purchased a SuperChiller Intercooler to
put under my B&M 250 supercharger. Now
I’m having the oil from the supercharger’s
front gear case blow out the pinhole vent in
the fill plug on the top. I don’t believe I had
that problem last year when I ran just the
supercharger. The boost pressure went from 11psi down to 6psi (I expected a drop). Does the B&M supercharger need the vented fill plug? Or do you think there is an issue with the seals in the front of the supercharger?

Thanks for your time.

Thomas Stevenson
LeClaire, IA


First of all, 11 psi of boost is unusually high for a B&M 250, unless your engine’s cubic-inch displacement is very low. Usually, you can expect a pound or two lower boost pressure with the SuperChiller primarily because the air becomes denser as it is cooled, and slightly due to the flow restriction through the core. If the oil is at the proper level in the blower and it is blowing oil out of the vent, it is likely that the seals are passing boost pressure into the gear case. Most all of the B&M blowers were designed to have a small hole drilled in the fill plug. There is a deflector cast into the front case to control the windage created by the gears which helps to keep the oil from coming out of the vent hole.

I know this sounds weird, but is it possible that you taped off the intake manifold or something before installing the SuperChiller and forgot to remove the tape? This would account for the higher pressure in the blower and the lower pressure in the intake manifold. It is also possible that your belt tensioner is not correct. When the tensioner is in the right position on the 16 primarily because the air becomes denser as it is cooled, and slightly due to the flow restriction through the core. If the oil is at the proper level in the blower and it is blowing oil out of the vent, it is likely that the seals are passing boost pressure into the gear case. Most all of the B&M blowers were designed to have a small hole drilled in the fill plug. There is a deflector cast into the front case to control the windage created by the gears which helps to keep the oil from coming out of the vent hole. I know this sounds weird, but is it possible that you taped off the intake manifold or something before installing the SuperChiller and forgot to remove the tape? This would account for the higher pressure in the blower and the lower pressure in the intake manifold. It is also possible that your belt tensioner is not correct. When the tensioner is in the right position on the 16 SuperChiller B&M Belt Tensioner.
rib belt setup, the yoke that holds the pulley should be about one-half inch from the aluminum housing that it slides in. Also, the nut on the stud that is used to pull the ten-sioner pulley back needs to be completely backed off so it cannot contact the housing. If the belt is not tensioned properly, it will slip and cause the boost pressure to be low. If these items check out, it might be time to rebuild the blower.


Carburetor Fuel Supply System

Dear Bob:

Q. I have a 1997 Eliminator 25′ Daytona with a Mercury Racing 600 SCi in it. It has the original blower but has a different cam, heads, and valve train. I also added a SuperChiller and some other odds and ends. Weldon fuel regulator. I’m currently getting a set of 800 Holley carburetors built for it and have a fuel supply question. The boat has had quite a bit of Teague parts installed by other owners over the years along with a Platinum shaft XR drive, so I figured I’d contact you for an opinion. I would like to get the Aeromotive part number 11211 14 psi 140-gph marine T-style fuel pump and a dead head regulator to replace my A1000 with a bypass regulator because it just supplies way more fuel than I need and is constantly returning, making it hard to balance the fuel tanks. Do you think the T-style pump and deadhead regulator will supply enough volume to consistently feed both Holley carburetors?

Thanks for your time.

Kyle Oeder
Morrow, OH

If you wanted to continue to use your current by-pass system, it can easily be done by installing an IMCO 6-port fuel valve. This valve allows you to return fuel to the tank that you are drawing fuel from.

The Aeromotive part number 11211 T-style marine fuel pump is a good part but has maximum power limitations. If your engine power is above 750 horsepower, then the 11211 pump will be on the edge of being able to supply the volume needed. I recommend the Weldon A2046 dead head regulator for reliability and stability. Another nice feature is that it has four outlet ports which would allow you to run four separate fuel lines to your fuel bowls.

We have found that in order to maintain 7-psi fuel pressure with the 11211 pump on a 700-horsepower engine, the regulator needs to be set close to 8.75 psi at idle speeds.

When you install the pump, install a fused relay to make sure there is an adequate and safe power supply to the pump.

For your chance to be featured in Teague On Tech, email your questions for Bob Teague to Ray@speedboat.com.

Check out the Teague Tech Library for diagrams and schematics of how to correctly install and perform various repair and upgrade projects. At Teague Custom Marine, we don’t ‘just sell parts’, we know how to install everything we sell. When it’s time to tackle a project, count on Teague Custom Marine to have the part and the answer.

The post Teague On Tech: Q & A with Bob Teague April 2023 first appeared on Teague Custom Marine.

Teague On Tech: Q & A with Bob Teague May 2023

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As seen in Speedboat Magazine’s
May 2023 Issue.

525 SC Gen V 502
Conversion/Upgrade

Dear Bob:

Q. I have a 1991 20’ Four Winns Liberator.
Recently, I purchased a freshly built motor
that is a 502 Gen V Big Block with the
Mercury 525SC supercharger set up using the
Weiand 177 blower with a single Dominator carburetor. I installed the engine in the 4 Winns and after running it noticed that the oil was getting water in it. When I checked it out, I discovered that the intake gasket the engine builder used was squeezed out at the water passage close to the #2 intake port. The cylinder heads on the motor are an Edelbrock aluminum hard anodized head designed to replace the stock iron heads. They have old Crane stud girdles and I am not sure of what the valves and other components are. At this point, I want to check out the upper end and get the correct intake gaskets and sealers to re-assemble the motor. Any advice that you have would be helpful.

Brendan Riley
East Haddam, CT

Intake gaskets for Mercury iron head performance engines.

The Edelbrock 61559 Marine head assembly can be used on either a Mark IV or Gen V/VI block. The exhaust ports are at the stock height for matching existing exhaust systems. They also have an intake manifold attachment bolt between the Siamese intake ports. The intake gasket is the same as the one used on a Mercury HP500 or 500EFI and all the Mercury Hi-Performance engines with iron heads. The Mercury part number is 27-818188-1. We also use a Cometic version that is part number IR122SP7059F. It is important to make sure the gasket material is the correct density. If the material is too soft, it can compress too much and squeeze out in a manner that you experienced. This could have also been caused by improperly torqueing the manifold down. It is important to tighten the bolts evenly and gradually increasing in a specified pattern.

Rocker stud thread heights. Low quality
stud on the right.

Proper sealants are also important. In order to hold the intake gasket in place, you can use Gascacinch or Locktite MR5416 on the areas on the head side around the intake ports. Gascacinch is like a contact cement where you put a coat on the head and the gasket and let it tack up. The MR5416 is a spray that you would only use on the intake port area of the gasket. Then use Permatex Ultra Black around the water ports of the gasket. Next, stick the gasket in place and put a film of Ultra Black on the intake manifold side of the gasket. Once the intake gaskets are in place, use Permatex Right Stuff Black Gasket Maker to make a bead on top of the “china rail” of the block to seal the ends of the intake manifold. Do not use a seal on the ends. Use only the Right Stuff with enough to fill the gap between the manifold and block. Put a little Loctite PST 567 on the stainless steel intake bolt threads to keep them from galling in the aluminum heads. Once installed, clean up the excess Right Stuff that oozed out with lacquer thinner or similar solvent.

Heads used for performance marine use should have certain features and components for reliability. Intake valves should be, or comparable to, Manley Severe Duty or Ferrea Competition Plus offerings. Exhaust valves should only be Inconel or Ferrea Super Alloy. Exhaust and intake seat material needs hard enough to withstand the impact of the valves. Valve guides should be bronze material. Valve seats should be simple and wide with a 45 degree angle. Exhaust seats should be at least .080” wide which helps keep the valve cool. Rocker studs should only be ARP. Any substitute budget rocker stud will likely result in a failure. Quality valve springs such as the ISKY “Tool Room” series that use a spring damper should be used. We prefer to cut the head to accept external spring cups instead of the internal style for increased spring stability. Tool steel retainers are the best to prevent retainer wear. 10 degree locks have become the standard and provide a positive lock in
the retainer.

If you are using heads that you have purchased as an assembly, it is important to check to see if they have the correct features and components listed above. You can check a lot of items for yourself. An Inconel or Super Alloy valve is made of two materials. The stem is only magnetic halfway down to the head of the valve. ARP studs are always identified with “ARP” on the top end of the stud. It is also important that rocker arm trunnion is supported mostly by the shoulder of the stud and not mostly on the threads. ARP rocker studs are available in various lengths and thread dimensions. Valve seat width can be measured with a set of calipers. For hydraulic roller set ups, the on the seat spring tension should be at least 150 to 160 pounds. We are using on the seat pressures of around 200 pounds with our Johnson hydraulic roller lifters.

For your chance to be featured in Teague On Tech, email your questions for Bob Teague to Ray@speedboat.com.

Check out the Teague Tech Library for diagrams and schematics of how to correctly install and perform various repair and upgrade projects. At Teague Custom Marine, we don’t ‘just sell parts’, we know how to install everything we sell. When it’s time to tackle a project, count on Teague Custom Marine to have the part and the answer.

The post Teague On Tech: Q & A with Bob Teague May 2023 first appeared on Teague Custom Marine.

Teague On Tech: Q & A with Bob Teague June 2023

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As seen in Speedboat Magazine’s
June 2023 Issue.

Leaning Left

Dear Bob:

Q. I have a brand new 28-foot catamaran
with a single Mercury Racing 600SCI, Mercury ITS, and a Mercury XR Sportmaster drive running a 28 pitch 4 blade Mercury propeller. This is my first Catamaran. With just a driver and passenger the boat has a noticeable lean to port when on plane at any speed. I realize this is caused by propeller torque. At the direction of the boat manufacturer, I burn the fuel out of the left tank first to help the boat ride more level. My question is: What else as a driver can I do to alleviate this lean? Would a set of trim tabs help or just create another problem? Any advice you can give would be greatly appreciated.

Tom Epley
Lake Havasu City, AZ


This is a fairly common problem with single engine boats. It is more noticeable with drives mounted higher on the transom which results in the propeller being higher and possibly surfacing. It is also more common with the use of higher pitch propellers. Contributing factors are how the heavier items are positioned in the boat such as batteries, stereo systems, galley items and seating arrangements. Hull designs can also influence the attitude of the boat. In some cases, it is a result of a slight hook in the bottom or sponson on one side compared to the other.

Mercury Bravo One propellers in right-hand and left-hand rotation.

Adding trim tabs can help to make the boat ride level but dragging a tab all the time affects how the boat handles and results in lower speeds and loss of efficiency. Trim tabs or planes should primarily be used to provide for a safer and more controlled operation in various water conditions. They can be used to help make the boat level when running with wind and waves blowing from the side. A boat tends to lean into the side wind. Lowering the tab on the side of the wind can help to make the boat level. If you are needing to do this, you should make the opposite tab level to the bottom as opposed to all the way up.

A right hand rotation propeller is more common on single engine boats because it helps to offset the effect of the engine torque that is spinning in the opposite direction. The easiest way to correct this problem is to switch to a left hand propeller which will result in the torque of the propeller and the engine both being in the same direction. With your Bravo XR drive, you will be running the drive in opposite direction. In order to make the rotation change, the cable at the helm shifter will have to switched to the other side so the cable operates in the opposite direction. This is very easy to do. Once you have switched the cable, it is important to re-check the cable adjustment at the intermediate shift bracket assembly that is usually mounted on the starboard header of your Mercury Racing 600SCI.


Too Much Prop for My Setup?

Dear Bob:

Mercury Racing Max-5 Propeller.

Q. I have an Eliminator 27 Speedster with Mercury Racing 400Rs. I am presently running 15×34 Mercury Racing Max-5 propellers. I also have a pair of 15×34 Mercury Racing Cleavers. I prefer the Max-5’s over the cleavers because they seem a little better for all around pleasure use and control. I also have a pair of Max-5 15×31 pitch props which are good for all around and improved acceleration.

When I last ordered a replacement prop, I was informed by you that the 15″ diameter had been pretty much replaced by the 15 ¼” diameter and that you were only stocking the 15 ¼” diameter because you have had better results with the larger diameter in all applications. I need to replace my 34 pitch Max-5’s because one of them is has two cracks on one blade. Would going up to the 15 ¼” diameter be too much prop for my setup?

Terry Setina
Olympia, WA

Originally, the Max-5 propeller was introduced as a new offering for the higher horsepower Mercury outboards. We started experimenting with the propeller on stern drive applications as an alternative to the Maximus propeller. We discovered that the mid-range efficiency was much better than a Bravo four-blade and the top end speed was at least a little better
and sometime significantly better on heavier boats. The Max-5 is made from the same casting as the Maximus. The Maximus propellers are great for mid-range efficiency, but not always the best on top speed performance except for boats with very high X-dimensions.

Based off our experience, we asked Nick Petersen at Mercury Racing Propeller to build us some prototype Max-5 propellers that were 15 ¼” diameter for use on high performance stern drive applications. Our tests showed that they were noticeably better with no downside. Then when used for the outboards, they were usually better there as well. The result was that Mercury Racing established part numbers for the complete line of Max-5 propellers that are 15¼” diameter. The 15¼” diameter has pretty much become the standard for the Max-5 propeller. At this point in time, larger diameters of the Max-5 are available by special order.

On your 27 Speedster, there would be no downside to running the additional diameter. The upside is that the boat would come on plane better with less vibration and be smoother throughout the RPM range. The cracks in your propeller blades are primarily being caused by the propellers surfacing and cavitating. The cavitation causes vibrations that can damage the blades. Surfacing causes the blades to flex which also can cause failure. The additional diameter and blade surface will help resolve the problem. If you can easily hit the 7000 rpm rev-limiter with your 15×34 Max-5s, I would stay with the same pitch and go to the 15¼” diameter. If not, then you might consider going down to a 33 pitch with the 15¼” diameter. You will probably lose about 100 RPM on the top end going to the 15¼” while picking a couple of mph.

For your chance to be featured in Teague On Tech, email your questions for Bob Teague to Ray@speedboat.com.

Check out the Teague Tech Library for diagrams and schematics of how to correctly install and perform various repair and upgrade projects. At Teague Custom Marine, we don’t ‘just sell parts’, we know how to install everything we sell. When it’s time to tackle a project, count on Teague Custom Marine to have the part and the answer.

The post Teague On Tech: Q & A with Bob Teague June 2023 first appeared on Teague Custom Marine.

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Teague On Tech: Q & A with Bob Teague Nov/Dec 2023

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As seen in Speedboat Magazine’s
Nov/Dec 2023 Issue.

High Horsepower
Carbureted Fuel System

Dear Bob:

I have a pair of older TCM 800 carbureted supercharged engines in my 382 Formula FasTech, which also has been converted from the original XR drives to Arneson Surface Drives.

I need to change the mechanical fuel pumps that are mounted on the engine blocks. The pumps have a label on them that says “Edelbrock.” Which Edelbrock pump should I use? Currently, the boat also has an electric Holley fuel pump as part of the system. What part numbers do I need for the mechanical and electric pumps? Can I do away with the electric fuel pump and just use a higher-volume mechanical fuel pump? Thank you!

Randy Davis
Stafford, VA

Above Right: Formula FasTech 382 with twin TCM 800 carb engines.
Above Left: Weldon regulator mounted on engine.

Hi, Randy,

I am very familiar with your 382 Formula. Your engines were originally built in 2001. I’m including an original photo of the engines in your boat (see to right).

Our experience over the years indicates that on engines above 800 horsepower the redundancy and volume provided by two pumps working in parallel is highly beneficial.

First, there needs to be a fuel filter head that has two fuel outlets to separately feed the electric and mechanical pumps. The filter head and filter itself must be capable of flowing at least 150 percent of the engine’s fuel flow requirements. We now use the FST Performance filter with our billet filter mount.

Dual regulator manifold for increased flow.

We have done the fuel systems several ways in the past but feel the best way is to use a higher pressure electric pump compared to the pressure output of the mechanical pump. This way, the bulk of the fuel is passing through the electric pump when the demand is lower. This fuel flow is necessary to cool the electric pump and prevent cavitation.

The electric pump does not have a check valve so fuel can flow backwards through it if there is no check valve in the system. So, if a check valve is not used in the system, the electric pump must always be running to prevent back flow of fuel and possible aeration. Even if a check valve is used in the hose going from the electric pump, the electric pump pressure must still be higher than the output pressure of the mechanical pump. The mechanical pump has check valves built into it so fuel cannot flow backwards through the mechanical pump even if the engine is not running. The output pressure of the mechanical pump is established by the tension of the spring or springs located on top of the diaphragm.

Above: Weldon dead head regulator on mounting bracket.

The correct mechanical fuel pump to use is similar to your Edelbrock which is a time proven design with 6 valves. Several aftermarket companies were producing the same pump until all the castings and tooling disappeared at one point. We now use a 6 valve fuel pump made by Baker Engineering that is a billet replica of the original design. It is available in low pressure (about 7.5psi) and high pressure (about 15psi). It is also available in a marine version with the fume tube nipple that enables a quarter-inch hose to be routed up to the flame arrestor so fuel would go into the carburetor in case there is a diaphragm leak. The part number 9372 is a 15 psi pump, and the part number 9373 is a marine version of the 7.5psi pump.

The two outlets on the filter head are plumbed separately to the two pumps so they are working in parallel and not in series. If you decide to use a high pressure electric pump, one of the ways to complete the plumbing is with a TCM fuel log that is also fed by the electric pump and has two Holley or Aeromotive regulators mounted on it (One of the these smaller regulators may not be able to provide adequate fuel flow by itself). Then each regulator will have a separate hose connected to it to supply each carburetor (on dual carb set ups like yours), or to each bowl on a dual feed carburetor.

For ultra-performance set ups especially with a single carburetor, we use a tee in the outlet of the mechanical pump which is supplied also by the high pressure electric pump then routed up to a part number A2046 Weldon “dead head” regulator that also serves as a manifold for supply lines to the carburetor(s) and can be mounted on an available stainless steel bracket kit.

Tee for single -8 fuel line to carb.

If you want to use a lower pressure pump without the need for a regulator(s), you can use part number 11212 Aeromotive marine electric pump or the Holley (red) part num-ber 712-801 marine fuel pump. Each of these pumps have a pressure bypass built in which is controlled by a spring. It is pos-sible to raise the output pressure slightly by stretching that spring a little.

When using the lower pressure electric pumps with the pressure raised to be just a little higher than the mechanical pump, install a tee on the outlet of the mechanical pump and connect the outlet of the electric pump to the tee. This way both pumps will be feeding the tee which either has two lines going up to the carburetor(s) or has a single line going up to fittings on a single carburetor.

FST Performance filter and mount.

The final way of providing an adequate fuel supply is the way it was done in your boat. You have a manifold on the outlet side of the mechanical pump that is also fed by the electric pump with a -8 hose. Then there are two -6 or -8 hoses going up to the hard lines on the dual carburetors. This system works well as long as the electric fuel pump pressure is slightly higher than the mechanical fuel pump pressure. The electric pump pressure can be adjust-ed a little by stretching the spring in the electric pump bypass as described above.

The true test of your fuel delivery system is that you can maintain at least 7 psi fuel pressure at sustained wide open throttle. Also, you should not see fuel pressure fluctuation on your gauge at idle which is an indication of electric pump cavitation or air entering the system on the inlet side from the tank pick up to pumps.

For your chance to be featured in Teague On Tech, email your questions for Bob Teague to Ray@speedboat.com.

Check out the Teague Tech Library for diagrams and schematics of how to correctly install and perform various repair and upgrade projects. At Teague Custom Marine, we don’t ‘just sell parts’, we know how to install everything we sell. When it’s time to tackle a project, count on Teague Custom Marine to have the part and the answer.

The post Teague On Tech: Q & A with Bob Teague Nov/Dec 2023 first appeared on Teague Custom Marine.

Teague 2023 Black Friday & Cyber Week Sale

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Teague Custom Marine Black Friday & Cyber Week Sale!

Teague Custom Marine is pleased to offer you FREE shipping on Online Orders of $200 and over* with use of the coupon code: FREESHIP200. This offer is only for online orders received during our Cyber Week promo period from Monday, November 20, 2023 through midnight on Sunday, Nov 26, 2023. This offer is for standard UPS Ground within the United States, and does not apply to the shipping charge for items requiring a pallet / LTL freight.*

Additionally, every online order received at Teague Custom Marine during the Cyber Week promo period will be entered for a chance to win a Teague Holiday Gift Box filled with Teague swag and prizes, valued at $300.  Each order regardless of the total will receive an automatic entry.  Teague Custom Marine will choose the winner at random and they will be notified during the week of November 27, 2023.

Teague Custom Marine is your #1 source for all marine parts & accessories, being your trusted supplier of TCM brand parts and largest marine distributor of most major name brands, also offering worldwide shipping.

Keep in touch with Teague

Keep in touch! Click here to sign up for our mailing list and receive exclusive special offers from Teague Custom Marine, and like our page on Facebook to keep up with the latest from Team Teague.

Contact Teague at (661) 295-7000 to make a parts inquiry, schedule a service appointment or request a quote for service. Teague Custom Marine is headquartered in a 30,000 sq.ft. mega-store and shop in Valencia, CA.

*Free shipping is Domestic Ground/Standard Shipping only and does not apply to upgraded or expedited shipping services. Must Use Code: FREESHIP200. Offer only applies to online orders placed via TCM website. Must use offer code to redeem this promotion. Certain exclusions apply, including shipment of items that require freight/LTL shipment such as Supercharger Kits, Complete Outdrives, Drive Uppers and Drive Lowers. Offer is only valid for online orders received on the Teague Custom Marine website, from Monday, November 20, 2023 through midnight on Sunday, November 26, 2023. This offer only applies to retail online orders and is not eligible for dealer or OEM accounts. This promotion is applied at the sole discretion of Teague Custom Marine, all rights reserved.

JAN-LP_04

The post Teague 2023 Black Friday & Cyber Week Sale first appeared on Teague Custom Marine.

Join Team Teague: Career Opportunities Now Available 2024

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Teague Custom Marine is currently hiring for marine technician positions at our facility in Valencia, CA.

Teague Custom Marine is looking for motivated individuals who are ready to contribute in a team environment. Applicants should be prepared to work in a dynamic environment where a positive attitude and a desire to improve one’s abilities, skills, and knowledge on a day to day basis will bring them success. Ideally, applicants should be passionate about Teague Custom Marine (TCM) products and services and have a genuine interest in the performance marine industry.

High Performance Marine Technician
(Inboard / Sterndrive / Outboard)
Hours: Full Time
Location: Valencia, CA

Requirements: Direct experience in the high-performance marine environment not required, but applicants should have the necessary mechanical background and ability to learn and apply advanced service, diagnostic, and specific technical procedures upon start of employment. TCM applicants should have a “can-do” attitude. Certifications or Degrees pertinent to high performance marine installations recommended. Mercury Marine / MerCruiser training or certifications preferred. Personal tools required.

Responsibilities: Technicians will be responsible for tasks involving all aspects of high performance powerboat maintenance and upgrades, including: service and diagnostics of all systems, engine removal and installation, engine disassembly and parts evaluation, stern drive and gimbal maintenance and overhaul, custom rigging of water, fuel, electrical, and engine support systems.

A Marine Culture: At Teague Custom Marine, we are boating enthusiasts – not just salespeople and technicians. A passion for boating, the boating and water sports lifestyle, and genuine interest in what we do are a plus!

The Full Package: Teague Custom Marine offers a comprehensive benefits package for eligible, full time employees including medical, life, dental, 401(k), paid holidays and vacation days.

Contact Us to Apply:
Please submit inquiries and resumes to:
Cherilyn Noack
(661) 295-7000
Cherilyn@teaguecustommarine.com

The post Join Team Teague: Career Opportunities Now Available 2024 first appeared on Teague Custom Marine.




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